Thursday, December 29, 2016

Archos 97 Carbon – Disassembling procedure – How to remove the battery - How to replace the Mother board


With the tablet facing you pry open the tablet. Start over in the left corner (by the buttons) working clockwise until the tablet is open.
Once the screen is separated from the back panel, you will see two cables connecting the screen to the interior of the tablet (one silver, one black).
Start with the black cable that is connected to the white tab. Remove the black tape that is holding the end of the cable to the tab.
Then gently pull the cable away from the tab with tweezers disconnecting the plug from the outlet.
Now remove the silver cable by removing the tape connecting the cable and screen. Gently detach the gold cable from the outlet.
Now the interior of the tablet is fully accessible.
Heat the soldering gun, once fully heated put the tip of the soldering gun over the solder that seals the battery cables to the motherboard (these are the two black and red cables on top) When the solder is heated the cables will remove easily.
With soldering gun also remove the four speaker cables on the right side of the motherboard. Put the tip of the soldering gun on the metal solder heating it up causing the cables to be removed easily.
Unscrew the 3 screws (with a Philips screwdriver) that connects the motherboard to the tablet, these screws are indicated by the 3 red markers.
When the motherboard is completely unscrewed, flip it over so you can see the underside.
Using tweezers gently press the sides of the black plug and pull away until the cable connect becomes detached.
Remove the other cable connector gently pressing the sides of the back of the plug and pulling away until it becomes loose.
The motherboard is now separated from the device.

Samsung ATIV Smart PC 500T – Disassembling procedure – Laptop replace the camera

Remove the stylus from the device.
Place the device screen-up on a hard surface, like a table.
Insert a plastic pry tool or opening pick between the glass and plastic case.
Work your way around the plastic edge, unclipping the backplate.
Once the clips are loosened, remove the backplate. Some force may be necessary.
Though you may need to use force, be careful of the pry tool slipping and hurting you!
Disconnect the three ribbon cables from the motherboard to free the battery.
Use your finger to lift the flap securing each ZIF connector.
Slide the ribbon cable out and towards you. Now it should be completely detached.
Repeat with the other two cables.
Get a firm hold of the power cable as close to the clip as you can.
Pull the power cable up and out of the clip.
Remove the six 3.5-mm screws using the Phillips #00 screwdriver.
Lift the battery out by hooking your finger under the tab on the top side of the battery and pulling it up and towards you. The battery should come out easily.
Gently lift the front-facing camera with your forefinger.
Grip the camera with your thumb and forefinger and lift up to remove the camera from the socket at its base.

Philips Home Theater BD Player - HTS3564 - HTS3578 – Sofware update – Power supply schematic diagram – Using ics - TNY174-180 - SSC9510

Software upgrade
Software upgrade method:
1.Copy the bin file as "HTS3564_XX.bin".
2.Then use the file to burn the upgrade CD-R/CD-RW.
3.Put the CD in the tray ,let the player loading the disc.
4.If the CD is correct ,it will display the Upgrade Menu ,press the PLAY key on the remote control to start upgrade
5.Afer a while, the tray will open automatically ,but must not power off the player.
6.Don't power off ,wait until the player reset automatically ,the whole upgrade process may need 2 minutes .HTS will auto standby after complete upgrade.
if you upgrade with USB device:
1.step1 is same with DISC upgrade;
2.Copy the renamed bin file(upgrade file) to the root menu of USB device.
3.connect the USB device to HTS ,and switch to USB source;
4.The rest is same to step 4,step 5 and step 6 with DISC upgrade.
ICs USED IN POWER SUPPLY
TNY174-180
Description
TinySwitch-LTincorporates a 650 V power MOSFET, oscillator, high voltage switched current source, current limit (user selectable) and thermal shutdown circuitry. The IC family uses an ON/OFF control scheme and offers a designflexible solution with a low system cost and extended power capability.
Applications
# Chargers/adapters for cell/cordless phones, PDAs, digital cameras, MP3/portable audio, shavers, etc.
# DVD/PVR and other low power set top decoders
# Supplies for appliances, industrial systems, metering, etc.
Pin Functional Description
DRAIN (D) Pin:
This pin is the power MOSFET drain connection. It provides internal operating current for both startup and steady-state operation.
BYPASS/MULTI-FUNCTION (BP/M) Pin:
This pin has multiple functions:
1. It is the connection point for an external bypass capacitor for the internally generated 5.85 V supply.
2. It is a mode selector for the current limit value, depending on the value of the capacitance added. Use of a 0.1 capacitor results in the standard current limit value. Use of a 1muF capacitor results in the current limit being reduced to that of the next smaller device size. Use of a 10 muF capacitor results in the current limit being increased to that of the next larger device size for TNY175-180.
3. It provides a shutdown function. When the current into the bypass pin exceeds ISD, the device latches off until the BP/M voltage drops below 4.9 V, during a power down. This can be used to provide an output overvoltage function with a Zener connected from the BP/M pin to a bias winding supply.
ENABLE (EN) Pin:
The switching of the power MOSFET is controlled by this pin.
MOSFET switching is terminated when a current greater than a threshold current is drawn from this pin. Switching resumes when the current being pulled from the pin drops to less than a threshold current. A modulation of the threshold current reduces group pulsing. The threshold current is between muAh75A and muAh115 A.
SOURCE (S) Pin:
This pin is internally connected to the output MOSFET source for high voltage power return and control circuit common.
SSC9510 Current Resonant Type Switching Power IC
The SSC9510 series are controller ICs, incorporating a floating drive circuit for half-bridge type resonance. The product achieves high efficiency and low noise power supply systems by the ZVS and ZCS. The product is recommended for high-efficiency small and standardized power supplies because of easy circuit designs with few external components.
Applications
Switching Power Supplies for
Digital Consumer Equipment; LCD-TVs, PDP-TVs, etc.,
OA Equipment; Severs, Multi-Function Printers, etc.,
Industry Machines, Communication Devices
POWER SUPPLY SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM 
CLICK ON THE IMAGE TO ZOOM IN 

Kurio Touch 4S – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the mother board

Make sure to open the back cover easily using the plastic opening tool
Remove back cover by prying away from the Kurio.
The easiest place to remove the cover is from the bottom and top; try to open it from right to left sides.
To remove the battery, make sure the four 5mm Philips screws on each side of your device is open using the Philips#1 Screwdriver.
After you remove your four 5mm Phillips screws, use your plastic opening tool to help you open the plastic cover of your device.
All these screws are identical so don't worry if you get them out of order.
Remove the plastic cover that is covering the camera area.
Separate the two halves of your Kurio Touch 4S and lay them besides each other.
Use Phillips # 1 screw to open the 4 screws on the motherboard.
Open the screws gently and do not apply too much force as you could damage the motherboard.
Use the plastic opener to remove the battery.
Use tweezers to remove the black tape that is attached to the motherboard.
Detach all the wire that are connected to the motherboard.
Also remove the camera module and other components that are attached to the motherboard.
Remove the motherboard with the help of plastic opener.
Detach the power plug before you remove the motherboard.
Use the Plastic opener to remove the screen.
Do not apply too much pressure as the front cover could be damaged.
Use the soldering tool to remove the wire that is attached to the screen & the motherboard.
Use tweezers to remove the screen from your Kurio Touch 4S.

Wednesday, December 28, 2016

SONY STR-DN1010 – Updating the firmware - How to access test mode – How to initialize the AVR

TEST MODE
TUNER AM STEP CHANGE MODE
Either the 9 kHz step or 10 kHz step can be selected for the AM channel step.
Procedure:
1. Press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. Press the [INPUT SELECTOR - ]/[INPUT SELECTOR +] buttons to select the “AM TUNER”.
3. Press the [POWER] button to turn off the main power.
4. While pressing the [DISPLAY] button, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
5. Either the message “AM 9k Step” or “AM10k Step” appears, select the desired step.
6. After a few second, “AM 531 kHz” or “AM 530 kHz” appears, select the desire step.
SOUND FIELD CLEAR MODE
The preset sound field is cleared when this mode is activated.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [MUSIC] button, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “S.F. CLEAR” appears and initialization is performed.
INITIALIZE MODE
All preset contents are cleared when this mode is activated.
(a) SHIPMENT MODE
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [DISPLAY] and [A.F.D.] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “CLEARING” appears and the memories are reset to the default values.
3. When done, the message “CLEARED !” appears, the set will power off.
(b) ALL CLEAR INITIALIZE
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [SPEAKERS] and [MUTING] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “CLEARING” appears and the memories are reset to the default values.
3. When done, the message “BD” appears after “CLEARED !”.
(c) USER INITIALIZE
Procedure:
1. Hold the [POWER] for 5 seconds.
2. The message “CLEARING” appears on the display.
3. After a few seconds, “CLEARED !” appears.
FLUORESCENT INDICATOR TUBE DISPLAY TEST
All fluorescent segments are tested. When this test is activated, all segments turn on at the same time, then each segment turns on one after another.
Procedure:
While pressing the [MUTING] and [DISPLAY] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
1. ALL segments light on.
2. Press the [DISPLAY] control, confirm display.
3. Again Press the [DISPLAY] control, confirm display.
4. Press the [DISPLAY] control, all segments light off.
SWAP MODE
The signal will be swap to all channel so that all speaker will have sound output.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [SPEAKERS] and [2CH/A.DIRECT] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “SWAP MODE” appears (No change while displayed).
COMMAND MODE CHANGE MODE
The command mode of the remote-commander which this set receives can be changed.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [MUTING] and [DIMMER] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. Either the message “C. MODE AV1” or “C. MODE AV2” appears. Select the desired mode.
PROTECTOR OFF MODE
This mode switching on/off the protector to investigate the cause of the protector.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [INPUT MODE] and [A.F.D.] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. “PROT OFF” appears and switch off the set.
.
HISTORY MODE
The state that the set is used is memorized.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [INPUT MODE] and [2CH/A.DIRECT] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the power and “HISTORY” is displayed.
2. Each time the [UP]/[DOWN] buttons on the remote commander is pressed, the item is switched.
SOFTWARE VERSION DISPLAY MODE
The software version is displayed.
Procedure:
1. While pressing the [INPUT MODE] and [MUSIC] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “N1 ** M-.--” appears.
**: Destination
Each time the [DISPLAY] button is pressed, “F.Ver -.--”, “H.Ver -.--” and “S.Ver -.--NII” this order, and returns to the “N1 ** M-.--” displayed.
SPDIF UPDATE MODE (FIRMWARE UPDATE)Plays the CD that contains u-com/DSP data with CD/DVD player.
Update u-com/DSP etc. firmware from SPDIF input.
Procedure:
Normal case
1. While pressing [DIMMER] button, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The messages “UPDATE” and “PLAY DISC” are displayed alternately every one second.
3. Connect CD player to TV OPTICAL IN jack (IC2004 on the DIGITAL board), and play update CD.
Update is started when DSP detect update signal. The message “UPDATING” is displayed blinks every one second.
4. While main u-com is being updated, fluorescent indicator tube is blacked out.
5. When update data error is detected or disc is not matched with target model, error messages “DISC ERROR” and “PLAY DISC” are displayed to restart playing valid CD.
When flash writing error is happened, error messages “UPDATE ERR” and “PLAY DISC” are displayed to restart playing CD.
6. When all update is finished, set is reboot automatically. After reboot, complete message “COMPLETE” is displayed (displayed continuously until any user operation).
Procedure:
After update is abnormal exit, and set is power on again
1. Enter update mode automatically after power on.
2. The messages “UPDATE” and “PLAY DISC” are displayed alternately every one second.
From this step, all user operation is prohibited. Power off is also prohibited.
If main u-com was failed to update, nothing is displayed.
3. Connect CD player to TV OPTICAL IN jack (IC2004 on the DIGITAL board), and play update CD.
Update is started when DSP detect update signal. From this, same as normal case.
SPDIF UPDATE CHECK
Function that checks hardware error for SPDIF update. This test takes about 15 seconds.
Procedure:
1. While pressing [DIMMER] and [2CH/A.DIRECT] buttons, press the [POWER] button to turn on the main power.
2. The message “TESTING” is displayed and LED (MULTI CHANNEL DECODING indicator) is blinking.
3. When abnormality is not found, the message disappears and LED is light up.
4. Communication error between main microcomputer and DSP, the messages “UART” and “ERROR” are displayed and LED is blinking in fast speed.
Communication error between HDMI microcomputer and DSP, the messages “HDMI” and “ERROR” are displayed and LED is blinking in fast speed.
Communication error between Faraudja and DSP, the messages “VIDEO” and “ERROR” are displayed and LED is blinking in fast speed.
Unknown error, the messages “UNKNOWN” and “ERROR” are displayed and LED is blinking in fast speed.
5. To release from this mode, AC power cord pull out.

Spirit treadmill - Spirit XT10 - How to calibrate the treadmill – Engineering mode – General servicing



XT10 Calibration
1. Remove tether cord. Press and hold the START and FAST buttons and put the tether cord back on. Display will
go into a test mode then FACTORY SETTING will scroll across the screen. Press ENTER.
2. “POWER ON” will scroll across the screen. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change. (ON) Press ENTER.
3. “UNITS ENGLISH” will scroll across the screen. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change from English to Metric. Press ENTER.
4. “ADJUST WHEEL SIZE” will scroll across the screen. A number will be in the time window. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change. (2.50) Press ENTER.
5. “ADJUST MIN SPEED” will scroll across the screen. A number will be in the time window. Use UP or DOWN
buttons to change. (0.5) Press ENTER.
6. “ADJUST MAX SPEED” will scroll across the screen. A number will be in the time window. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change. (12.0) Press ENTER.
7. “ADJUST MAX ELEVATION” will scroll across the screen. A number will be in the time window. Use UP or DOWN buttons to change. (15)
8. Press START. Unit will now auto-calibrate speed then incline. Unit will reset when it completes calibration.
Checking wire harness for continuity
Set your multimeter to read ohms.
Place the test leads at opposite ends of the wire, make sure both leads are on the same wire and are in contact with metal.
If the reading is close to 0 ohms, the wire has continuity (unbroken).
If the reading is very high or there is no reading at all, there is no continuity.
If there is no continuity, the harness needs to be replaced.
Speed sensor adjustment
Take off the motor hood.
The speed sensor is located on the frame, near where the drive belt goes around the front roller.
The sensor should be adjusted to about 1/16th of an inch from the front roller.
Checking treadmill circuit breaker
The circuit breaker is a small, red button between the power cord and the power switch.
Press the button in to reset.
Check roller for magnet
The front roller should have a round magnet and a round counter weight.
Take a screw or something metallic and test each one.
Only one should be magnetic.
Adjust Torque Boost
Using a small screw driver, turn the dial counter clockwise until it stops.
Press the START button on the console.
With someone standing on the walking belt, turn clockwise until the belt begins to move.
Increase the speed and check for smooth belt movement.
Replacing controller
Disconnect power cord from unit.
Remove motor hood.
Remove two Phillips screws holding in the controller.
Disconnect all wires connected to the controller.
Insert new controller, secure with Phillips screws.
Reconnect wires to controller.
Replacing wire harness
Turn power switch off.
Unplug harness from console and controller.
Tie the end of the new harness to the old harness (with a zip-tie or spare wire).
As you pull the old harness out of the upright, you will pull the new harness in.
Connect to board and console, & turn power back on.
Replacing drive motor
Turn power switch off.
Disconnect red and black motor wires from controller.
Loosen tension bolt and remove four motor bolts.
Take off drive belt.
Insert new motor into place.
Put drive belt on.
Put in four motor bolts. Do not tighten them all the way down.
Tighten the tension bolt until you only have about an inch of play in the drive belt.
Tighten down the four motor bolts.
Plug the motor wires into the controller.
Replacing incline motor
Turn power switch off.
If possible, fold up unit.
Turn treadmill onto its side.
Disconnect motor wires from controller.
Remove bolt from incline tube.
Remove bolt from top of incline motor and take out motor.
Insert new motor and put in bolt on the top.
Reconnect motor wires to controller.
Turn on unit. The new motor should turn until it is at “zero”.
Insert bolt into incline tube.
XT 10 Engineering mode
1. Remove the tether cord.
2. Press and hold the START, ENTER, and STOP buttons and replaced the tether cord.
3. The display will say ENGINEERING MODE. Press ENTER.
4. Press the UP and DOWN buttons to scroll through the following sub menus:
Calibration
Factory Settings
Security
Functions
Display Test
Key Test
5. Press ENTER to access the desired program.

Motorola Moto E – Disassembling procedure – How to replaces the mother board

Turn off the device before beginning.
To remove the back cover, start at one corner and stick the plastic opening tool under the cover and pry it away from the phone.
With the plastic opening tool, pry all the way around the phone while lifting up on the cover.
You should hear a snapping sound at each corner.
Unscrew the 14- 4mm screws using a T4 Torx driver head.
Working on a magnet board is recommended as the screws are small and can be easily misplaced.
Using the same plastic opening tool, once again pry up on the edges of the plastic back cover.
Be sure that all of the screws are out before lifting the cover. The plastic backing is fragile, and it may break.
Gently lift the back plate away, exposing the motherboard. The battery will be stuck to the back of the cover, so be careful when lifting it off.
Do not touch the connections to the battery in the red square on the picture.
Gently pull up on the red and black power cable to lift the connector out of the motherboard.
Move the battery and cover away from the motherboard.
Unscrew the 3- 1mm screws using the T4 torx driver head.
Lift up on the white plastic mount.
Pull the orange ribbon cable out gently.
Gently pull the black ribbon cable out.
Using the metal spudger, pry the motherboard away from the screen assembly.

Monday, December 26, 2016

Nokia Lumia 521 – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the Headphone jack

Push the plastic opening tool in between the screen and the back case of the phone.
Pry the top of the phone between the case and screen until they are separated.
Once the cover has been removed,the battery will be visible. Grab the plastic tab and pull it to remove the battery from its place. If there is no plastic tab, use the plastic openingool to pry the battery loose.
After the battery is removed, push the SIM card from the left side with your thumb until it is loose.
Using the Torx T5 screw head, remove all screws. Note that there are two different sized screws.
Five screws are 5 mm long and four are 4 mm long.
Five 5 mm screws.
Four 4 mm screws.
Using a plastic opening tool, pry apart the inner back case apart from the rest of the phone,
starting at the top and prying while going around the phone.
Unclasp the motherboard from the black case clasps using a plastic opening tool.
Unclip the motherboard clasps using your fingers or a plastic opening tool.
Gently pry audio jack with your hand until it is removed from its space on the phone.
Unclasp the golden flap attached to the audio jack using the plastic opening tool (The top golden flap should already be unclasped from removing the motherboard).

Apple Magic Mouse - Disassembling procedure

SPECIFICATIONS 
Multi-touch gesture control
Bluetooth wireless connectivity
Lightning port (for charging and pairing)
Internal lithium-ion battery
DISASSEMBLING PROCEDURE 
Slightly warm up the bottom of the mouse
In the previous model, strong adhesive secured the aluminum belly to the mouse.
Apple has mentioned that their mouse has an "optimized foot design." Peel off those feet, the new model hides screws underneath.
After lots of heat and half a dozen prying tools wedged under the casing, the mouse is partially released from the gluey mess beneath.
Finally separate the lower casing from the mouse and get first view of its  midframe.
Popping four plastic clips open lets into the battery chamber.
It turns out these clips are actually part of the rocking/clicking mechanism for the single top shell/button.
Also check that clear acrylic. It's only painted on the underside, leaving the top and sides clear.
With the upper casing lifted up, get a clear view of what makes this mouse so senseational that capacitative array.
The capacitative array makes this mouse a bit of a trackpad hybrid, allowing it to detect touch on its surface, registering gestures made without even moving the mouse.
Finally Screws, Unfortunately, they're holding down a bracket over a ribbon cable which prevents us from separating the mouse bits just yet but hey, that ribbon cable.
seatbelt will make the mouse better withstand drops.
Finally separate from the base of the mouse, the upper casing provides a clearer view of its capacitative touch-sensing array.
A little spring provides some resistance and distributes force when the mouse is clicked, making it seem like the small button on the right occupies the whole width of the mouse.
Broadcom BCM20733 Enhanced Data Rate Bluetooth 3.0 Single-Chip Solution
Unknown 303S0499 probably a proprietary Apple touch controller
NXP 1608A1 Charging IC
Texas Instruments 56AYZ21
ST Microelectronics STM32F103VB 72 MHz 32-bit RISC ARM Cortex-M3
Hiding beneath the logic board, find a teensy switch that makes the mouse click its click.
It held in only by the board above, and is a welcome relief after wading through the rest of this tar pit.
As a common failure part for computer mice, it's nice that Apple used a fairly standard and easilysourced switch although its replacement will require dealing with all of that glue (and soldering in the replacement switch).
Turn our attention to the battery, which sits snug as a bug in its little plastic box, making it annoying to extract.
As it turns out, that's not the only thing holding it down there's a mess of glue to contend with as well. Removing the battery is even less fun than we feared.
The Magic Mouse 2's battery shares a common feature with the Apple TV Remote the Lightning connector is soldered to the battery cable.
This small accessory doesn't pack light that 3.67 V, 7.28 Wh, 1986 mAh li-ion cell holds about 9% more powerful than the one in the iPhone 6s
The Lightning port and battery can be replaced (as a single component), independent of the logic board if you can get the device open.
Replacing a malfunctioning switch requires prying through intense adhesive and soldering.
Excessive use of strong adhesive makes it very difficult to remove the rear panel, hindering access to every internal component.

LG Optimus V – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the speakers


Take your LG Optimus V and turn it so the screen will be facing down.
Locate the crease at the top center of the back cover. It should be the crease right above the camera.
Then, use your removal tool to detach the back cover.
The battery will be the grey rectangular object sitting in the center of the backside. Take out the battery with your hand. Now replace it with your new baterry. Afterwards, reinsert the back cover and you will be good to go.
This silver casing has 6 screws holding it on. Take your screw driver and unscrew all of them.
Now take your prying tool and use it to remove the silver casing. This will reveal more parts of the phone.
This big black thing is the antenna. You will need to remove this to get access to the camera area.
Use your prying tools to remove each area holding the parts together
Now you have access to the parts and can start replacing and repairing.
The area circled in red is the camera
Use your prying to first remove the small black and yellow peice that reads Y3114C
After that part has been lifted, you can procede to prying off the camera.
Now just put your new one back on and connect the black and yellow piece
This is the speaker area
Take your soldering iron and hit the two points where the wires meet the motherboard. Remove that part and take your new speaker and solder it back on. Speaker is now fixed.

Motorola Droid Turbo – Disassembling procedure – How to replace the camera


Slightly warm up the rear panel.
Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear case off of the rest of the device.
Remove the rear case.
The wireless charging coil may try to stick to the rear case, so make sure to remove it from the case before fully separating the rear case from the rest of the device.
Remove the midframe bezel.
Remove the four Torx T5 screws securing the midframe plate.
Remove the midframe.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pop up the battery connector.
Fold the wireless charging coil away from the battery.
Use a spudger to gently pry the battery up from the rest of the device.
The battery is secured with some moderate adhesive, so some force may be necessary.
Remove the four Torx T5 screws securing the lower antenna board to the motherboard.
Remove the lower antenna board.
Remove the SIM card holder/volume button rocker.
Carefully lift up the motherboard to expose the display connector.
Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the display ZIF connector.
Pull the display ribbon cable free of the connector.
Disconnecting the display ribbon cable makes it easier to remove the rear-facing camera, but it is not strictly necessary.

Livestrong treadmill - Livestrong LS8.0T – How to access engineering mode – Troubleshooting

ENGINEERING MODE
1) To enter Engineering Mode, press & hold the INCLINE UP and SPEED DOWN  keys at the same time for 3-5 seconds until Engineering Menu appears on the display.
2) Use the INCLINE and SPEED UP and DOWN keys to select a parameter.
3) Press ENTER to enter a parameter setting.
4) Use the INCLINE and SPEED UP and DOWN keys to change the parameter.
5) Press the START key to save the change to the parameter.
6) Press and hold the STOP key to exit Engineering Mode and return to normal operation.
TROUBLESHOOTING
NO POWER TO THE CONSOLE
1) SYMPTOM:
a. The power switch is in the on position, but the console will not turn on.
2) SOLUTION:
a. Check to see if the power switch is lit. If it is not, try a different outlet.
If the power switch still does not light up with a known good outlet, replace the power switch.
b. Check to see if the MCB has power. There is a red power LED on the MCB that should be lit.
c. If the MCB does not have power, check the connection of the power wiring from the power receptacle to the MCB.
Use a multi-meter to measure AC1 & AC2, AC voltage shall be same as local’s standard voltage (110V-240V)
If AC voltage value is standard, replace the MCB as it shall be defective.
d. If the MCB does have power, check the connection of the console cable wire at the MCB and UCB.
Remove the console cable from MCB, and use a multi-meter to measure the DC voltage between the “GND pin” (Pin4&5) and the ” + 15V Pin” (Pin7 & 8). DC output is normally around DC 15V. If no output, replace the MCB.
If output is around DC 15V, check the console cable. If it is defective, replace the console cable.
If the console cable connections are all good, replace the PCB.
THE POWER IS ON, BUT MACHINE HAS NO RESPONSE
1) SYMPTOM:
a. The power is on and the console lights up, but the treadmill does not run when keys are pressed.
2) SOLUTION:
a. Check if the console beeps when all keys are pressed. If no, replace the keypads.
b. Enter Engineering Mode. and scroll to ENG 1 (Hardware Test).Press the key “ENTER” first and then the key ”START”.
When press the key “SPEED + / -“, if the data on windows “TIME” & “DISTANCE” is changed, the console is ok. If not, replace the PCB.
c. Turn off the power switch, and open the motor upper cover. Remove the red & black wires of motor from the MCB, and use a multi-meter to measure the resistance of drive motor.
If the resistance is bigger than 10 , the drive motor is defective. Replace the drive motor.
If the resistance is lower than 10 , the drive motor is ok. Then,
Check the connection of the speed sensor (encoder disk group) at the MCB
Remove the speed sensor  from the motor and clean it, then re-test.
If the speed sensor is clean and has a good connection but still will not operate, replace the speed sensor.
Replace the MCB as the last step if machine does still not run after to take above actions.
INCLINE MOTOR ISSUES
1) SYMPTOM:
a. The incline motor does not lift up or down.
2) SOLUTION:
a. Enter Engineering Mode ,and scroll to ENG 1 (Hardware Test). Press the key “ENTER” first and then the key ”START”
Press the key “INCLINE UP/DOWN”.
If can hear beeps from two relays  at the MCB, the MCB is ok. Then check the connection of the elevation motor at the MCB  first, try to unplug and re-plug these two pins. If cannot resolve the issue, replace the elevation motor.
NOISE ISSUES
1) SYMPTOM:
a. Thumping noise twice per rotation on new machine.
b. Rubbing / grinding noise.
c. High pitched “bell-like” sound from under the motor cover.
d. Banging or clunking sound.
e. Slapping / thunking / squeaking sound with each footstep.
f. Rubbing sound underneath the treadmill.
g. Squeaking noise when raising / lowering the deck into storage positions.
h. Squeaking / grinding noise when using elevation.
2) SOLUTION:
a. This noise is from the roller or running belt.
If this is a new unit, some noise is normal as the running belt forms around the rollers.
Check that the belt is centered and tensioned correctly.
Remove and clean the rollers if needed.
Replace the rollers or running belt as needed.
b. This sound is likely a moving component.
Remove the motor cover and check the drive belt for alignment and make sure it is not slipping or is frayed / cut in any way. Replace the drive belt if needed.
Make sure the optic disk on the motor is not rubbing the speed sensor.
Turn the motor by hand to see if motor brushes or bearings are rubbing. Replace the motor
if needed.
Check the front and rear rollers, replace if needed.
c. This sound is likely caused by the optic disk.
Check that the optic disk is tight on the motor and not rubbing the speed sensor.
d. The sound is likely due to the unit not being level.
Check that all levelers are touching the ground.
Move the treadmill to another flat surface
e. This sound is from the running deck / belt.
Check that the running deck is tightly attached to the frame.
Check the deck shocks for detioration or crumbling. Replace if needed.
Check to see if the air shock is making this noise, lubricate or replace if needed.
f. This sound is likely due to the air shock.
Lubricate or replace the air shock as needed.
g. This sound is likely from the incline motor.
Check that the incline motor connection points include Teflon washers.
Lubricate the incline motor worm screw and connection points with grease.
Replace the incline motor.

Sunday, December 25, 2016

Valleylab Force FX Electrosurgical Generator – Test procedure - Checking the Bipolar Output - Checking the Output for the Cut Modes - Checking the Output for the Coag Modes – Medical electronics repair and service

Category: Medical Electronics Repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • How to test the Bipolar output
  • How to test the Cut mode
  • How to test the Leakage current 

Valleylab Force FX

Checking the Bipolar Output
1. Verify that the generator successfully completes the self-test as described in Testing the Generator in this section.
2. Connect the test equipment for bipolar output.
a. Connect the two test cables to the Bipolar Instrument receptacle.
b. Pass one test cable through the current transformer and connect the current transformer to the voltmeter.
c. Connect the 100 ohm power resistor across the output jacks at the end of the test cables.
d. Connect the bipolar footswitch to the Bipolar Footswitch receptacle on the rear panel.
3. Press the Precise button and set the bipolar power to 10 watts.
4. Test the output current for the selected Bipolar mode.
a. Press the footswitch pedal and, while activating the generator, note the output on the voltmeter.
b. Release the footswitch pedal.
c. Based on the voltmeter setting and the current transformer you are using, calculate and record the output current.
5. Press the Standard button and repeat step 4.
6. Press the Macro button and repeat step 4.
7. Verify that the generator output for each mode is 316 ± 17 mA rms.
If the output is outside the specified range, calibrate the bipolar output as described in calibration steps 5, 6, 7, and 8. Then repeat this procedure
Check the Output for the Cut Modes
A.
Verify that the generator successfully completes the self-test as described in Testing the Generator in this section.
B. Connect the test equipment for monopolar output.
(1) Connect one test cable to the left jack in the Monopolar 1/CEM
Instrument receptacle. Pass the test cable through the current transformer and connect the current transformer to the voltmeter.
(2) Use a test cable to short the two pins on the Patient Return Electrode receptacle.
(3) Connect the second test cable from the voltmeter to both pins of the Patient Return Electrode receptacle.
(4) Connect the 300 ohm resistor across the output jacks at the end of the test cables.
(5) Connect the monopolar footswitch to the Monopolar 1
Footswitch receptacle on the rear panel of the generator.
C. Press the Pure button.
D. Press the Cut up or down
arrow buttons to set the cut power to 80 watts.
E. Test the monopolar cut output.
(1) Press the footswitch cut pedal and, while activating the generator, note the output on the voltmeter.
(2) Release the footswitch pedal.
(3) Based on the voltmeter setting and the current transformer you are using, calculate and record the output current.
F. Press the Low cut button and repeat step 1.E.
G. Press the Blend button and repeat step 1.E.
H. Verify that the generator output for each mode is 516 ± 37 mA rms.
If the output is outside the specified range, calibrate the monopolar output as described in calibration steps 5, 6, 7, and 8. Then repeat this procedure.
Check the Output for the Coag Modes
A.
Complete items A and B of the previous step, replacing 300 ohm resistor with 500 ohm resistor in item B.4.
B. Press the Desiccate button.
C. Press the Coag up or down
 arrow buttons to set the coag power to 80 watts.
D. Test the monopolar coag output.
(1) Press the footswitch coag pedal and, while activating the generator, note the output on the voltmeter.
(2) Release the footswitch pedal.
(3) Based on the voltmeter setting and the current transformer you are using, calculate and record the output current.
E. Press the Fulgurate button and repeat step 2.D.
F. Press the Med (Fulgurate) button and hold for two seconds. After the tone sounds and the "L" appears on the left side of the Coag display, repeat step 2.D.
G. Press the Spray button and repeat step 2.D.
H. Verify that the generator output for each mode is 400 ± 28 mA rms. If the output is outside the specified range, calibrate the monopolar output as described in calibration steps 5, 6, 7, and 8. Then repeat this procedure.
Checking Low Frequency Leakage Current and Ground Resistance
Check the low frequency leakage current and ground resistance before returning the Force FX-8C generator to clinical use.
Equipment required:
# DVM
# Leakage current tester
Output Receptacles and REM Source Current
1. Set the DVM to AC volts (200 millivolts [mV]) and connect the leakage current test circuit.
2. Turn on the generator.
3. Measure between all the output receptacles (including the Patient
Return Electrode receptacle) and earth ground. Record the largest reading.
4. Determine the leakage current using the conventional
1 microamp (µA) per 1 mV.
5. Verify under normal conditions (ground closed, normal polarity) the leakage current is less than 10 µA.
6. Verify single fault conditions (ground open) the leakage current is less than or equal to 50 µA.
Chassis or Earth Leakage
1. Set the DVM to AC volts (200 mV) and connect the leakage current test circuit.
2. Turn on the generator.
3. Measure between the chassis and earth ground.
4. Determine the leakage current using the conventional 1 µA per 1 mV.
5. Verify under normal conditions (ground closed, normal polarity) the
leakage current is less than 100 µA.
6. Verify single fault conditions (ground open) the leakage current is less than or equal to 300 µA.
Output Receptacles and REM Sink Current
1.
Set the DVM to AC volts (200 mV) and connect the leakage current test circuit.
2. Turn on the generator and connect the end of the leakage current test circuit to mains voltage through a 120 kΩ resistor.
3. Connect the other side of the IEC leakage load to all of the output receptacles (including the Patient Return Electrode receptacle).
4. Determine the leakage current using the conventional 1 µA per 1 mV.
5. Verify the leakage current is less than or equal to 20 µA.
Checking High Frequency Leakage Current
Check the high frequency leakage current and ground resistance before returning the Force FX-8C generator to clinical use. Check the leakage current
# After calibrating the generator
# Every six months.
Equipment required:
# 200 ohm, 250 watt, noninductive resistor
# Current transformer
# True RMS voltmeter (Fluke 8920 or equivalent)
# Bipolar and monopolar footswitches
Checking Monopolar High Frequency Leakage Current
1.
Connect the 200 ohm load from the active accessory through the current transformer to the equipotential ground lug on the rear of the generator.
2. Connect the current transformer to a true RMS voltmeter.
3. Connect a monopolar footswitch to the Monopolar 1 Footswitch receptacle on the rear panel.
4. Activate the footswitch in each Monopolar mode at the maximum control setting. Record the leakage current. If using the leakage table, leakage current should not exceed 150 mA for any mode.
Checking Bipolar High Frequency Leakage Current
1.
Remove the monopolar accessories, and connect the 200 ohm load from one side of the bipolar output through the current transformer to the equipotential ground lug on the rear of the generator.
2. Connect the current transformer to the true RMS voltmeter.
3. Connect a bipolar footswitch to the Bipolar Footswitch receptacle on the rear panel.
4. Activate the footswitch in each mode at maximum control setting.
Record the leakage current. It should not exceed 60 mA for any mode using either the leakage table or short lead configuration..